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Cottle C.T.L. Washed Cotton-Linen Bengara Straight Denim Jeans
01-17833
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Cottle Jeans was born from the desire to create a bridge between Kurashiki's culture—where folk art and textile traditions meet. This textile concept took nearly three years to fully develop. Originally developed by Kichinosuke Tonomura at the Kurashiki Honzome Handwoven Research Institute, Cottle sought to reproduce his iconic indigo and Bengara-dyed selvedge denim. Cotton thread was hand-dyed several times with all-natural Bengara (Indian red), then rewound onto spools. The natural dyeing process softened and weakened the yarn—leading to repeated thread breakage on the first sample attempts. After extensive trial and error, wax was applied to increase yarn strength, improving flexibility without compromising the integrity of the natural dyes.
The denim was first patterned on a jacquard loom to reproduce the selvedge edge, then the main body was woven on a shuttle loom—a time-intensive process that preserves a hand-woven texture. A cotton nep thread and a thick linen thread are twisted into the weft, creating an airy, soft, and remarkably comfortable textile with natural elasticity despite being made entirely of natural materials. From dyeing to finished fabric, the process takes about half a year. The selvedge ID thread is dyed with Bengara, a natural handmade Indian red.
Sewing thread reproduces the colors used in 1960s jeans manufacturing: a cotton-wrapped span core thread in golden brown and orange. The golden brown thread fades to beige-pink with wear; the orange thread shifts to a bright, beautiful shade over time. This straight fit version features an old-fashioned button fly, a leather patch made of kudu suede, original pewter (tin) cast buttons, and a hidden rivet on the back pocket.
Straight fit – old-fashioned silhouette.
Size 3 = approx. 42cm / W32